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What Is Selvedge Denim?

by LiWenshan 05 Feb 2024

While jeans were originally designed as workwear for miners, gold diggers, and cattle ranchers, they have become an essential part of our everyday closet today. Despite the ever-changing trends, jeans remain a timeless classic for all generations. However, not all denim is produced in the same way, so one pair of jeans can be strikingly different from another. The fabric used determines the jeans' density, fit, durability, and fading technique. Therefore, when looking for a new pair, the type of denim used in it is one of the main criteria for selection. There are many ways of producing this fabric, but if we are talking about real jeans in their traditional form, the most popular are pairs made of a fabric called selvedge denim.

The iconic denim made from Selvedge denim fabric is a dream for fashion fans worldwide. The fabric is a source of inspiration for designers, professional tailors, and sewing enthusiasts. What is so remarkable about the famous denim? What is the history of its appearance, the geography of brands, and the peculiarities of care? Things made of denim are always popular. Such clothes are universal, perfect for creating a basic everyday image and fitting into the business style. For example, denim shirts are already worn by many with pantsuits and jeans - with classic blazers. Denim itself has different production methods. The most current and sought after is denim from a fabric called "selvedge".

Jeans are not just versatile, practical, and comfortable garments. It's a cult; it's a fetish and a whole history that unites generations. Only authentic jeans made from quality selvedge denim can be better than jeans. And to learn how to choose great jeans, let's understand what selvedge denim is and what is special about it. Jeans come in many different varieties. Selvedge denim is a special denim produced on an old-style shuttle loom. Although outdated compared to the latest technology, it has the advantage of a special fabric structure that does not require additional basting. The contrasting threads included in the fabric structure make such jeans recognizable. And, even though selvedge jeans are not considered the highest quality, due to the labor-intensive process of processing and obtaining them, they are more expensive than other analogs.

What Does Selvedge Denim Refer To?

Selvedge (selvedge, self-edge, selvage) or also known as "Redline" or "Aka-Mimi", is a tightly woven selvedge denim with the threads running parallel to the main fabric threads. Over time, colored threads have been woven into this selvedge denim. As a rule, the thread is red, but it can be white (for example, it was used in Vintage jeans) or a combination of these two colors. The term "selvedge" refers to the self-finished edges of denim. The edges are tightly woven to prevent fraying and unraveling, giving the jeans a clean and polished look. Selvedge denim can often be recognized by the distinctive colored edge seams found on the outer seams of the jeans.

Selvedge denim is a tightly woven denim fabric. This kind of fabric is produced using traditional looms. You can easily tell if your jeans are made of self-woven denim or not - just look at the outside seam of the rolled-up pant leg: as a rule, if it is self-woven denim, you will immediately see a contrasting thread woven into the selvedge of the fabric, also such fabric processing looks very neat. Even though they work slower, shuttle machines have an advantage - they produce fabric with a tucked edge that does not need to be swept.

One of the most notable features of self-sewn jeans is that they are usually made in small quantities by artisans who take pride in their work. This attention to detail means that selvedge jeans are often higher quality than mass-produced denim. To tell if your jeans are sewn from self-sewn denim, you have to wrap the edge of the pant leg and look at the outside seam. The tightly cut selvedge denim cannot be mistaken for anything else. The instantly recognizable contrasting thread woven into the selvedge denim fabric tends to look neater than an overlock treatment.

How Is Selvedge Denim Made?

The process of manufacturing of selvedge denim starts with the selection of high quality raw fabric - 100% cotton. This choice guarantees the strength and durability of the finished product. The fabric is then passed through vintage looms used for weaving self-woven denim. These looms allow you to create a special loop along the edge of the fabric, which is a distinctive feature of the selvedge denim.

Next, the resulting fabric is subjected to processing and dyeing. Natural dyes are often used to dye selvedge denim, giving it a special hue and uniqueness. The fabric then goes through a finishing process that includes sanding, finishing, and matting. The result is a finished selvedge denim fabric, which is then used for tailoring.

What Is the History of Selvedge Denim?

Selvedge denim jeans, or high-density denim, are special jeans with a unique history. They are popular for their durability, style, and originality. In the mid-19th century, the Levi Stratos family established a textile factory where they began making cotton fabric. Their fabric eventually began to be called "denim," thanks to the French city of Nîmes, where the first army pants were developed from this fabric.

Levi Stratos and his brothers in the small town of Lodi, California created the first jeans made from denim. Levi Stratos found that the denim fabric used to make work pants was not strong enough and decided to make them out of denim, a hard-wearing and durable material. Thus 1873, the first jeans of selvedge denim fabric were created. They had strong double seams, rivets, and high-density fabric, which made them ideal for workwear. The quality and durability of the selvedge denim jeans were so high that they became popular with miners, railroad workers and farmers.

The original selvedge denim jeans originated in the United States. The peculiarity lies in the raw edge on the inside. The deciphering of the name sounds like "self-finished edge," which literally means - "self-finished edge." In essence, the remaining fabric on the seam is not cut or stitched in these jeans. For example, in modern jeans, these details are oftene processed with an overlock - a special sewing machine. But in America, the first shuttle-type machines did not have this capability. They captured only a narrow strip of fabric.

Initially, almost all jeans were made of selvedge denim. Such a fabric consists of 2 contrasting threads. At the same time, the wrong side of the fabric always remains white. Until 1950, all jeans were produced by shuttle method on special machines. Due to the special weave of threads, the fabrics did not unravel. It was considered one of the most durable, although over time, it developed scuffs that made each model unique.

Over the next decades, jeans continued to be workwear, but in the 1950s, Hollywood stars began wearing them in movies, which caught the attention of young people. This period is considered the beginning of the popularity of the selvedge denim jeans among young people and the emergence of the image of "bikers" in the culture.

Since then, selvedge denim jeans have symbolized style and non-conformism. They became popular all over the world and found their place not only in workwear but also in everyday fashion. Today, many jeans manufacturers create their versions of the selvedge jeans, while maintaining the principles of high quality and originality of this unique garment.

Why Is Selvedge Denim Considered Better?

Quality: selvedge denim is woven on old-fashioned looms that create a tighter weave and tighter fabric than modern mass-produced denim. The result is a higher quality product that will last a long time.

Durability: because selvedge denim is made from a tight weave, it is much more durable than other types of denim. This means your selvedge jeans will last longer and require fewer repairs than other jeans.

Environmentally friendly: the traditional manufacturing methods used to make selvedge denim jeans are more environmentally friendly than modern methods. This is because they use less water and energy and produce less waste. Also, because Selfridge jeans are durable, they don't need to be replaced as often, reducing their environmental impact.

Stylish: Such selvedge denim jeans are perfect for any occasion, whether it's a casual shopping trip or an important date. Such a pair can be combined with any basic top and combined with almost any clothes.

Original: Each pair of such selvedge denim jeans is unique, which means it is not similar. Such a thing acquires creases and scuffs depending on your figure and how you wear jeans. Over time, scuffs and creases may appear on the jeans, but this will only add originality to the pair.

Why Is Selvedge Denim More Expensive?

Indeed, selvedge denim is more expensive than regular jeans - it's slower production, primarily due to the cultural value. In addition, brands that invest in such a process usually don't skimp on fabric quality either - hence the pricing.
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